California Citrus

California’s citrus season brightens winter. Stem-and-leaf mandarins are a favorite; the zest of their rind is wonderfully aromatic in dishes. As we reach toward the warmth of spring, I love incorporating colorful citrus at the height of its ripeness in easily assembled salads, the formula of which includes sweetness, tartness, and acidity. Experiment with cara cara navel and blood orange, pomelo, grapefruit, mandarin, lime, kumquat, and meyer lemon. If looking for a pithy lemon for zesting or candying, fingered citron like Buddha’s hand is best.

Here are my favorite assembly recipes that incorporate the bounty of citrus:

A SWEET, Herbaceous SALAD

On an oversized plate, toss:

  • Grapefruit, wedged

  • Blood orange, wedged

  • Fresh mint leaves, bruised

  • Multi-floral honey, like this wildflower variety from Flamingo Estate in Los Angeles, to drizzle

  • Coarsely ground pink sea salt to sprinkle

A CRUNCHY, TANGY SALAD

On an oversized plate, toss:

  • Cara cara orange, wedged

  • Pistachios, toasted and chopped

  • Avocado, thinly sliced

  • Squeeze of fresh meyer lemon juice

  • Dijon vinaigrette (Note, the French way is best, and couldn’t be simpler: whisk together 1 large spoonful of Dijon mustard; 2 of red wine vinegar; 5 of extra-virgin olive oil. Add a splash of cold water and pinch of salt. Shallots or honey to taste.)

A SHARP, ACIDIC SALAD

On an oversized plate, toss:

  • Cara cara orange, wedged

  • White onion, slivered

  • Fresh basil leaves, bruised

  • Balsamic vinegar, like this Giusti Modena bottle, to drizzle

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Winter Bolognese